Put a little life in child's lunchbox

By Debra Samuels
GLOBE CORRESPONDENT

DECEMBER 28, 2000 LIFE AT HOME SECTION

Is your child tired of the same old lunchbox fare? Have you had it with one more request for a Fluff sandwich? Are you suspicious that your children might be trading their carrot sticks for corn chips? Are you sure they couldn't care less about any effort on your part?
We lived in Japan when my elder son was a first-grader. It was an education for all of us, not least of all when it came to the preparation and presentation of lunch for a 7-year-old. The Japanese moms made Rembrandts out of rice balls and fruit. Their masterpieces were not only nutritionally balanced, but also made your eyes water: mini. franks cut into the shape of an octopus, hard-boiled eggs cut to look like tulips. With a snip and a slice, the apple wedge became a bunny rabbit. W ith a tuck and a roll, a colorful spiral sandwich emerged. All the food groups were covered. Every child brought a folded cloth napkin and perky pals on the thermos in a handmade drawstring bag.
Needless to say, this did not go unnoticed by my son. It was great being the only American in class, but coming to school with peanut butter and jelly, celery sticks, banana, and juice box in a brown paper bag was demoralizing. To save his face and mine, I bought "100 Ideas on Children's Obento" (portable lunches), just one of dozens of books and over sized how-to magazines in my local bookstore. Dazzling lunches are serious business for Japanese children and for their mothers, who would no more dream of creating an unplanned meal than their children would consider not eating every last morsel.
My son barreled through that book and chose the first of many edible art projects I would make that year: a sandwich in the shape of a little boy's face complete with bologna bangs. Endless minifranks and fruit and vegetable ménageries later, I realized children did notice and did care. And yes, he did eat the whole thing.
Of course, I don't recommend going to these lengths, nor do I subscribe to the concepts of guilt and obligation that underlie this.
(Well, maybe I do, but just a little.)

In Japan, however, there is a down side to all this: competition among the children and among the mothers. Moms are not just feeding their children or impressing them and their pals with their efforts. The teacher and other parents doing their PTA duties notice, too. Tongues cluck, children talk, and the teacher might even make a call home about a child's being embarrassed and teased due to a mother's insufficient effort.
Since 60 percent of Japanese women work I thought perhaps it was only the stay-at-home moms who had the time to do this. Wrong again. For everyone, working or not, there is internal and external pressure across educational and economic lines to make attractive, well-balanced meals with at least the appearance of their being homemade. Sure, plenty of women buy little salads, but before they go into the lunch box they are placed in a foil cup, and those store-bought meatballs are speared with a colorful plastic pick with a flag on top.
Even for someone like me, who loves playing with food and torturing little hot dogs into another species, this is way over the top. I did learn a great deal about the value of planning lunches and making them look appetizing, though. Children were delighted with their meals and ate with gusto.
With just a bit of effort and a few new ideas, you may be pleasantly surprised to find those lunch boxes comming back empty because the contents actually have been eaten, not fed to the trash.

(P.S. My sons never traded their meals when we came back to the States - they sold them!)

Apple Bunny

Cut and core one apple into 6 wedges. Slip a paring knife under the apple peel and slice carefully about two thirds of the way up. Cut a V into the apple skin flap and remove. You now have two ears. Add a splash of lemon juice to a small bowl of water and dip in the apple bunny to help prevent browning.

Octopus Franks

Cut each little frank almost to the top. You now have two pieces attached to the head.
Carefully slice each flap into thirds. Place in boiling water until the legs begin to curl up.
So this marine mollusk has six legs? Who's counting?

Little Known Lunch Fact:

Boston Mayor Thomas M. Menino remembers this about his early school lunches: "In first grade, every day, I took bologna, except Friday, when I took tuna fish."

Pinwheel Sandwich (Makes 4 servings)

4 slices of smoked salmon, turkey or ham
Bean sprouts, red or green pepper strips
4 slices of cheddar cheese or cucumber strips
12 slices of white or whole wheat bread, crusts removed
½ stick butter or margarine softened
¼ c. light mayonnaise(with 1 teaspoon mustard and or tarragon)
4 leaves of loose-leaf lettuce plastic wrap, washed and dried

Place 3 slices of bread in a row leading away from you on top of a sheet of plastic wrap.
Flatten the bread with a rolling pin. Spread with butter or mayo mixture and overlap the slices ¼ inch on the tops and bottoms. Press them together.
Place the lettuce on the two slices of bread closest to you. Place slices of salmon, turkey, or ham on top of the second slice of bread and the cheese on the third slice.
Add the sprouts (or other vegetables) on the salmon.
Lift up the first slice of bread and roll the sandwich forward, away from you.
Enclose the roll in the plastic wrap and chill overnight or for at least 2 hours. Slice into 4 rounds.
Repeat with remaining ingredients.
Make this the night before and slice in the morning.
Also try roast beef with spiced cream cheese, but avoid tuna and egg salads, as the bread will become soggy.

This story ran in the Boston Globe on 12/28/2001.
© Copyright 2001 Globe Newspaper Company.

Hot cereal brings comforting start to the day

WHETHER you call it porridge, gruel, mush, or hot cereal, there is a world of wonderful grains for hot breakfast on a cold New England morning.

Some gag at the thought of hot cereal. Others drool thinking about brown sugar, a pat of butter, and milk melting into a creamy bowl of steaming oats. Carol Halewood of Lexington shudders as she recalls how her mother held Carol's nose and force-fed her oatmeal when the weather dipped below 40 degrees. She won't go near the stuff today.

Carol Bohmer of Cleveland, on the other hand, smiles thinking of her Sunday semolina supper. Growing up in New Zealand, she remembers, ''after a big midday meal, we were given hot cereal for dinner. The best part was the square of chocolate my mum put into our bowls. We watched it melt and made spirals with our spoons.''

A wide variety of hot cereals is on grocery shelves. Quaker Oats are smooth and creamy, while McCann's Irish Oats are crunchy. Wheatena is toasty and textured, while Farina is bland but satisfying. Cream of Rice looks like wallpaper paste, but adding milk, a smidge of butter, and brown sugar is great for a hurting tummy. Wolff's Buckwheat Kasha is often eaten as a side dish and makes an earthy porridge. Remember Marky Maypo who bellowed, ''I want my Maypo!''? This instant, maple-flavored, presweetened combination of oats and rye is deliciously nostalgic.

Grocers put the ''pure'' stuff on the top shelf and place the flavor-enhanced (artificial), presweetened, individually packeted items at eye level. These are adorned with pictures of vanilla beans, cinnamon buns, and apples. One oatmeal brand even contains ''dinosaur eggs.'' A candy egg melts and a candy dinosaur emerges.

With all the hype, you can't be sure just what you are buying. Ingredient lists consist of multiple, multi-syllabic words and sugar in its varied forms (dextrose, sucrose, guar gum). Compare this to the one or two ingredients listed on the packages you can barely reach.

Most of us eat hot cereal with something on top. Adding your own salt, butter, milk, brown sugar, maple syrup, granola, or raisins gives you some control, and you can at least pronounce what you are eating. One teaspoon of brown sugar is 15 calories, raisins add iron, cinnamon a little flavor, and maple syrup about 50 calories per tablespoon. Nutritionists turn to hot cereals when looking for good sources of fiber and iron, especially for women. The cereals are naturally low in cholesterol and fat.

Cooking time is determined by how much the manufacturer has processed the cereal. The larger the oat flake, the longer the cooking time. ''Instant'' means fairly small and very processed and requires 30 to 90 seconds; ''quick cooking'' needs about 3 minutes; and ''old-fashioned'' will take anywhere from 5 to 8 minutes. Grits and Irish oats are in the ''eternity'' category at 20-30 minutes.

John McCann's Irish Oats (available at Trader Joe's and Bread and Circus) are prized by oatmeal aficionados. Their crunch, grainy texture, and nutty flavor attract devotees. The whole-grain groat (inner part of the oat kernel) is not rolled flat, but cut into two or three pieces, leaving little nuggets, which is the reason for the 30-minute cooking time.

McCann's Web site offers shortcuts, though. Soaking oats overnight, chopping the oats in a food processor, toasting them in the oven, and microwaving all save time. Basically, you are doing the processing. The microwave takes about 12 minutes for two bowls, and can leave a big mess if the oatmeal overflows - but the crunch remains.

One suggestion is to put the oats in a crock pot overnight on the low setting (one cup of oats to four cups water) and add raisins and cinnamon. You wake up to a wonderful aroma and a pot of delicious hot oatmeal. The problem is that the crunch disappears. If you like creamy oatmeal, this is a great idea. Make enough for several days and store in individual containers in the fridge. Just add a little milk and reheat for 2-3 minutes in the microwave. However, to enjoy this cereal as it is intended, there is no substitute for standing at the stove, stirring occasionally, and eating right away.

This feast can come out of your kitchen

A lot of people are convinced they cannot cook. Bad experiences, low motivation, little time, no understanding of cooking terms - these are just a few of their reasons. Each has a remedy.

FayRuth Fisher, 25, a graduate of Hampshire College now working as a legislative and political coordinator for Massachusetts AFL-CIO, is a smart young woman who says she has a hard time following recipes. ''I get all motivated by looking at the pictures and the finished product, then somewhere halfway into the recipe I decide something is taking too long,'' she says. ''I get resentful and eliminate a step or two.''This clearly was the source of her problem when she made a cake that called for stiff egg whites. Not knowing what stiff egg whites looked like or why they had to be stiff (makes the cake rise), she got frustrated and beat them only a little and added them to the cake batter. The result was a very flat cake and gales of laughter from her mom and friend who then took a picture of the cake for posterity. Fisher was convinced that ''cooking was not my thing.''

Debbie Louis, 49, a mother of two and vice president of e-business operations at Centra Software, likes to cook but has very little time during the week. Still, she feels it's important for the family to sit together and have a ''nice nutritious meal.'' She knew others at her company felt the same, so she asked caterer Bob Yacavonis of Sensational Foods of Watertown (617-924-6703) if employees could order full-course meals that he would deliver to the office each week. Her company provided refrigerator space.''I'm a two-bag-per-week customer,'' says Louis. ''That's five meals for a family of four.'' She says it costs about $100 a week, and is worth it.

Louis found her solution, but most people who think they can't cook just need a bit of confidence, a few simple, no-fail recipes, a little motivation, and maybe even cooking classes. Wendy Greenberg, mother of two, avowed non-cook, and object of derision from her family for most of her culinary efforts, found salvation through cooking lessons, a gift from a friend. With glee and pride in her voice, she recently announced she had made pizza, dough and all, from scratch: ''My husband came home to the smells of food cooking and thought he was in the wrong house.''

With Thanksgiving - and all its expectations for a glorious multi-course meal - imminent, there is alarm among those who find this too daunting a task. No meal could be simpler, however, precisely because the menu is mostly set. Herewith, a complete Thanksgiving dinner in which no dish has more than two main ingredients (simple spices, water, and butter do not count as extra ingredients).

After setting some rules (no prepared food allowed in the main meal), we set about creating a great dinner with all the trimmings and no stress. Instead of a whole turkey, we chose a fresh turkey breast. (Sorry, dark-meat lovers.) A vegetable duo of baby carrots and sugar snap peas is, indeed, a snap, and stuffing with cranberry sauce even made the cut. As for garnishes, a sprig of fresh parsley does wonders.

With the main meal complete, we stretched the rule for dessert and made it an assembly project: four things combined and very do-able. There is no weeklong preparation timetable. The only thing you need to do in advance is go shopping. This meal can be done in just a few hours on Thanksgiving Day. The smell of food cooking and the accompanying kudos will be very satisfying.

Basic cooking and baking courses are offered at many adult education programs through local high schools. The Boston Center for Adult Education (617-267-4430) offers Basic Cooking Principles in three sessions and also has single-session workshops on topics such as vegetarian Thanksgiving, Thanksgiving side dishes, Thanksgiving leftovers, and holiday baking.


Roast Turkey Breast with V-8 Gravy

One 5-pound turkey breast
2-3 cups V-8 juice salt, pepper, and paprika

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Rinse turkey breast under cold water. Pat dry with paper towels.
3. Place turkey breast in a roasting pan, breast side up. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and paprika, and rub into skin.
4. Mix 2 cups V-8 juice with 1 cup water, and pour over and around the turkey breast. 5. Follow cooking directions on turkey package. Spoon the pan juices over the turkey every 15 minutes. Add more V-8 and water as needed to maintain at least an inch of juice in the pan.

A 5-pound breast takes about 2 hours. A meat thermometer placed in the thickest part of the breast and not touching the bone should reach 185 degrees. If you do not have a thermometer, pierce the breast with a knife. If the juice runs clear, the turkey is ready. Slice and serve.


Pepperidge Farm Stuffing with Whole Cranberry Sauce

This stuffing is prepared outside the turkey. Just before serving, pour pan juices from turkey over the stuffing.

1 pound package herbed seasoned stuffing
1 cup whole berry cranberry sauce, thinned with 1/4 cup warm water.

1. Prepare stuffing according to package.
2. Add the cranberry sauce and toss together. If the stuffing seems dry, add a little water, 1 tablespoon at a time.


Baked Sweet Potatoes with Maple Syrup

4 whole sweet potatoes
maple syrup

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
1. Wash and dry sweet potatoes. Rub the skin with a little vegetable oil. Pierce with knife in several places.
2.Place potatoes in a pan, and bake for approximately 1 hour. They are done when a knife slips easily into the center. (Put the potatoes into the oven while cooking the turkey in its last hour.)
3. Split the potatoes lengthwise and drizzle on maple syrup. Mash with fork to incorporate the syrup. Finish with a little more syrup.


Sugar Snap Peas and Baby Carrots

1 small bag peeled baby carrots
1 pound sugar snap peas (frozen are fine)
salt and pepper 1 tablespoon butter

1. Bring 4 cups of salted water to a boil in a large pot.
2. Add peas and cook them for one minute. (No need to defrost if frozen.) Remove peas with a slotted spoon.
3. Bring water back to boil and add carrots. Cook until just soft, about 4 minutes. Drain.
4. Combine peas and carrots in a dish with 1 tablespoon butter. Season with salt and pepper. Serve


Pumpkin Ice Cream Parfait

Pumpkin Ice cream is sold at Toscanini's in Cambridge (617-354-9350), Lizzies Ice Cream Parlor in Waltham (781-893-6677), and Shaws Farm (a working farm), 195 New Boston Road, Dracut (978-957-0031). Wilson Farms in Lexington (781-862-3900) also carries the Shaws Farm pumpkin ice cream.

Pumpkin ice cream
Soft lady fingers (3 per person) found in supermarket bakery sections
Marshmallow Fluff
Granola or chopped pecans

1. Split all lady fingers. Line individual cups, small bowls, or wine glasses with six lady finger halves placed vertically around the cup and overlapping on the bottom.
2. Spread 1 tablespoon of Fluff on top of the lady fingers at the bottom of the cup.
3. Place a large scoop of pumpkin ice cream on top of the Fluff.

Sprinkle granola or chopped pecans on top.

Navigating the nutrition info highway

Looking for some good food jokes? Try the KidZone page at asfsa.org, sponsored by the American School Food Service Association. Need a lesson plan and ''ready to print'' activity sheets on the food pyramid and good food choices? Visit nutritionexplorations.org, the site of the National Dairy Council. Looking for ways to reduce the fat in your favorite fettuccine Alfredo recipe? Click on cyberdiet.com and go to ''recipe recreations.'' Not only will you get a recipe, but you'll find a ''before'' and ''after'' calorie and nutrient analysis as well.

An enormous amount of nutrition information is on the Web, but it can be hard to find. The Center on Nutrition Communications at the Tufts School of Nutrition Science and Policy provides a way to navigate it all. It's called Nutrition Navigator, at navigator.tufts.edu, a ''rating guide to nutrition Web sites.'' Ask dieticians for their favorite Web site and most point to this as the very first place to visit. Tufts nutritionists review and rate Web sites for accuracy, depth of information, and usability, among other categories. Each Web site that is reviewed on the 25-point scale (25 being the best) gets an overall rating and information on target audience, sponsor, and commentary.

Hundreds of sites are reviewed under headings including Family, Special Dietary Needs, Hot Topics, and Women. It is not overwhelming. Each site mentioned has a short summary, then a single page with the site's Web address, rating, and more about the content. Still interested? Click and you're there.

Most sites have a variety of options once you get there. Parents looking for recipes for children are also likely to find activities they can do online with their children, such as game show-style quizzes, puzzles, and nutrition information.

Many nutrition sites are sponsored or co-sponsored by commercial firms or business associations. For instance, healthychoices.org, aimed at teachers and day-care providers, is sponsored by the Growers of Washington State Apples and Tree Top, a fruit processing company. The site promotes healthy eating throughout the food pyramid and has lessons and coloring sheets to download for preschoolers, though all the recipes use some form of apple.

Even the Tufts Navigator site is sponsored by Kraft Foods. Some groups' agendas are more obvious than others. The Vegetarian Resource Group, vrg.org, rated a 24 (among the best) by Tufts, has as one of its titles ''Afraid of Mad Cow Disease?'' It directs you toward alternatives to meat products, such as veggie burgers. The site has informative articles, tips on feeding a vegetarian child, and loads of recipes.

The National Dairy Council Web site, nutritionexplorations.org (rated 22, among the best), originally was designed to support the many Dairy Council programs that are already in the schools. For teachers, lesson plans and activities are ready to download. The site also includes information for food service professionals and parents, a Nutrition Bookshelf, and a colorful place called the familyfoodzone.com with a funky interactive refrigerator, games, and recipes. The primary message is about the importance of calcium in one's diet through dairy products but as part of a well-balanced diet from the five food groups.

Cyberdiet.com, with a high rating of 24, promotes health and fitness, and features articles, on-line diet support, and a variety of topics. Colorful, easy to follow, reasonable advice and a free weight assessment tool make this site user-friendly.

All these sites have links galore to other sites. You can spend time going from one place to another and end up in Ireland, at the Healthy Food magazine sponsored by the Department of Health in Dublin: indigo.ie/~indicom/crunch.htm. The recipes might be in grams and the Irish spell yoghurt with an ''h,'' but the information is useful.

The site dole5aday.com, with a rating of 21, has activities and tips for parents to encourage children to eat more fruits and vegetables.

''Hey Mikey, what did the banana do when it heard the ice scream? It split!'' There's plenty more where that came from at asfsa.org/kidzone/jokes.asp.


Black Bean and Mango Salsa
(Adapted from nutritionforkids.com)

1 can (15 ounces) black beans, rinsed and drained
1 can (7 ounces) yellow corn
1 medium mango, peeled and diced
1/2 red pepper, seeded and diced
1/4 cup Spanish onion, finely diced
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons olive oil.

1. Mix all ingredients in a bowl and chill. Serve with baked tortilla chips.

To make a burrito: Place 1/2 cup of black bean salsa on a tortilla. Sprinkle on some grated Monterey Jack cheese, fold the burrito in half, and grill in frying pan for 2 minutes on each side.


Raisin Buddy Banana Muffins
(Reprinted with permission from dole5aday.com)

2 ripe, medium bananas
1 egg, beaten
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1 1/2 cups flour
1 cup sugar
6 tablespoons cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup raisins

1. Lightly grease muffin tins. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Mash bananas until smooth. Add eggs and oil.
3. In a separate bowl, combine flour, cocoa, sugar, baking soda, salt, and baking powder. Add banana mixture and stir until moistened. Stir in raisins.
4. To make mini muffins, spoon 1 tablespoon of batter into each mini-muffin pan cup. Bake for 12-15 minutes. Cool muffins before popping out. For regular muffins, spoon 1/3 cup batter into 10 or 12 prepared muffin cups. Bake for 20-25 minutes.


Hot Legs
(Adapted from the Munch'n Crunch @ Lunch site indigo.ie/~indicom/hotleg.htm)

Serves 6

8 carrots, peeled and sliced into strips
12 chicken drumsticks
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 large onion, sliced thin
2 teaspoons garlic powder
1 can (16 ounces) chopped tomatoes and juice
2 heaping teaspoons cornstarch
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon chili powder
2 tablespoons ketchup
salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

1. In a 9-by-13-inch casserole, spread the carrots along the bottom.
2. Wash and dry drumsticks and sprinkle on salt, pepper, and garlic powder. In a frying pan, brown the drumsticks in the oil for 3 minutes each side. Place them on top of the carrots.
3. In the same frying pan, saute the onions. Mix the cornstarch and water. Add the chopped tomatoes and cornstarch mixture to the onions. Heat until bubbly. Add the chili powder and ketchup. Mix well until thickened.
4. Pour the sauce over the drumsticks. Cover with foil and bake 30 minutes.
5. Remove the foil and cook another 10 minutes.
6. If you wish, serve with a dollop of plain yogurt over each serving. Rice makes a good accompaniment.

The Wooden Bowls

I was on my hands and knees, plucking pot after broken-handled pot from beneath my Nana's cabinets cluttered with kitchenware accumulated after the death of each of her four sisters. "Who needs to spend money on new pots with all these?" I imagined her saying.

Imagined indeed. My grandmother, Beatrice Bloom, had died just days before, at age 94, and I was helping my mother clean out her apartment in Miami Beach. The mound of pots grew while thoughts and images of the formidable, widowed Cohen sisters: Aunts Rose, Ruth, Francis and Lilly, came alive. Rose, the undisputed matriarch and best cook, Ruth the best baker, intrepid Lilly (who at 84 showed up, alone at our Tokyo apartment), and Francis and Beatrice-- working girls until well into their late 70's.

And then, like a miner hitting a vein of gold, I found what I knew had to be there somewhere-- two shallow, elliptical wooden bowls nestled together. Pulling them from the darkness of the cabinet, in tears, I brought them close to my nose and breathed deeply, smelling more than half a century of Friday night and holiday dinners. Nothing triggers memories like aromas. There I was, in February 2001 on the floor of a kitchen in Miami, transported decades back to the New York City apartment my grandmother and her sisters Rose and Francis shared.

Frazzled from a Friday night ride on the Long Island Expressway, we step off the elevator into the hallway of Beatrice's apartment building, and are met by the distinctive smells of Eastern European Jewish cooking. We could have picked any floor in that building or any other in the neighborhood where Jewish women were preparing dinner, and would have felt right at home.

Chopchopchopchopchop-- the rhythmic sound of metal blade hitting wooden bowl at rat-a-tat speed. The smell, oh the smell. Onions being fried in chicken schmaltz (chicken fat) permeated the hallways and infused my soul. What treats lay behind the door of Apartment 7B! Roast Chicken, Chicken Soup with Matzoh Balls, sweet noodle pudding…

Upon entering the apartment, there would be a flurry of hugs and commands. My two brothers, and father were set upon. If a male attempted to follow his nose across the culinary 38th Parallel of Aunt Rosie's kitchen, they were chided and shooed "Out, out, out!" I alone was allowed into the kitchen where a flushed Aunt Rose held the double-bladed chopper above the wooden bowl and exclaimed "Debala (little Debbie in Yiddish) how about a little taste?" She filled a spoonful of chopped liver scraped from the bowl and into my mouth. (Even at age 10, I loved this stuff!) Before I could answer, Rosie would say "more salt," and toss crystals of kosher salt into the bowl, in perfect unmeasured proportion.

But the single magic ingredient (or lethal weapon, as we now know) was chicken schmaltz. A jelly-glass full of the weeks of rendered chicken fat-- resembling strata of sedimentary rock-- sat inside the refrigerator door. A dollop was always added to the chopped chicken livers, fried onions and hardboiled egg mixture. It was guaranteed to take you to Jewish Nirvana and probably was responsible for more than a few triple by-pass operations.

A basket of fresh challah is on the center of the table set with a beautiful linen cloth, the good china and silver. Finally we are all seated. My Nana and Aunt Francis serve the first course. Happy and chatting, we spread the chopped liver onto the challah.

Aunt Francis reaches for the salt-- big mistake. "What are you doing?" demands Rose. "It needs salt," Francis explains. "No it doesn't" retorts Rosie as she reaches into Aunt Francis's plate with her fork, confirming her pronouncement. Then an exchange of "no it doesn't, mind your own business, what do you know" ensues. The girls, even as octogenarians, never agreed on much. I always wondered why the salt and pepper shakers were out on the table, as they were purely for decoration.

Herring, gefilte fish, and walnuts were chopped for a variety of dishes in those wooden bowls. My great-grandmother, who came to this country from Poland, observed kosher rules. She used different bowls for different foods. As time passed, however, the next generation dropped this custom, replacing it with a good washing instead.

My mother, Rona Greenberg, has her own wooden bowl, and when I got married, part of my 'dowry' was a new wooden bowl and chopper. Customs changed over time as we assimilated into American culture. My great-grandmother's Shabbos (Sabbath) dinner with candles and prayers, turned into a regular Friday night gathering of cousins in my mother's generation, before it became dinner at Nana's when I was a kid. And now what is it? Pizza and a video after a long week of work and busy schedules.

Yes, I do use my wooden bowl, sometimes even for making chopped liver. To be honest, though, I more often hit the pulse button on the Cuisinart. But, against my better judgment, I do skim the fat off the top of the chicken soup and add it to the batter for making matzoh balls-- you get a much lighter ball and not a bomb that sinks to the bottom of the pot. However, I also crush sesame and fennel seeds and mash tofu in this same wooden bowl. Sorry girls.

With my Nana's tchotchkes ("stuff" comes closest in English) and those two bowls as carry-ons, I returned to Boston from Miami. I was richer than when I left. Fighting my sentimental instincts, knowledge about bacteria forced me to put the bowls into the dishwasher. Today they are on my kitchen counter, filled with fruit and memories.

Gut Yuntuf (Yiddish for Happy Holidays) Nana and Aunties. For this year's Rosh Hashanah dinner I will use your bowls to make chopped liver, and add an extra spoonful of shmaltz with a dash of tears. No one had better reach for the salt.


Aunt Rosie's Chopped Liver (serves 8 as an appetizer)

There are as many methods for making chopped liver, as there are Jewish mothers.
My paternal grandmother, Bess, used mayonnaise as her secret ingredient, to no end of disdain from the Cohen girls.

1 pound fresh chicken livers
2 large onions
2 hardboiled eggs
2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil or chicken shmaltz(fat)
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

1. Clean and separate chicken livers. Place chicken livers in a baking dish and broil for 2 minutes. (My mother in law boils them for about 3 minutes).
2. Chop onions and sauté in a frying pan with the oil(chicken shmaltz) for 15 minutes until they are very soft and brown. If you dare, fry them in rendered chicken fat.
3. Add the chicken livers and sauté an additional 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.

To mix by hand in a chopping bowl:

1. Finely chop hard-boiled eggs and set aside.
2. Vigorously chop the onion and liver mixture until well blended and spreadable. Add the eggs and mix with a spoon. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To mix by food processor:

1. Put eggs in processor bowl and with 's'blade hit the pulse button 3-4 times. Remove to a separate bowl.
2. Add the chicken livers and onions to processor bowl and hit the pulse button about 7-8 times. Add to the egg mixture and mix well.
Season with salt and pepper.
If the mixture is a little dry, you can add a little oil, chicken shmaltz or mayonnaise.

To serve individually:

On a small plate, place a mound of about 3 tablespoons on a lettuce leaf garnished with tomato wedges. Serve with Challah, matzoh, or crackers like Tam Tams(Manishewitz Brand)


Grandma Rita's Mock Chopped Liver (Vegetarian)

This is my mother-in-law Rita Schwartz's delicious and lower fat alternative to the real thing. "You know we all have to watch it these days, says Grandma Rita."

1 8 ounce can green beans
1 8 ounce can green peas
15 Tam Tam crackers
2 large onions, chopped
3 hard boiled eggs
1 tablespoon low fat mayonnaise
1 cup chopped walnuts
salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1. In a frying pan, sauté onions for 15 minutes until soft and browned.
2. Put the onions alone in the food processor and pulse 3-4 times and remove.
3. Place walnuts and Tam Tam crackers in the food processor bowl and pulse until just broken up.
Add the vegetables, hard boiled eggs and process until smooth.
4. Finally add the onions to this mixture and pulse another 3 times.
5. Scrape into a mixing bowl. Add mayonnaise, salt and pepper to taste.
Chill for at least 2 hours.


Rosie's Herring Salad (serves 12)

This is like a pate and is delicious with crackers

2 jars pickled herring filets (not in cream sauce) with onions
2 apples peeled and grated
¾ cup walnuts
2 hard boiled eggs
1-2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ cup sour cream(you can omit this)

1. Drain herring filets and reserve the liquid.
2. Chop herring and onions finely in a bowl or pulse about 6 times in a food processor.
3. Place in a bowl and add the grated apple, ½ cup of chopped walnuts, hardboiled egg, lemon juice, sugar and a few teaspoons of the pickling liquid.
4. Season with salt and pepper.
5. Serve with crackers on a platter. Garnish with the remaining walnuts.


Rosie's Waldorf Salad (serves 4 as a first course)

Old fashioned and simple to make, this salad is quite refreshing. It also makes a great dessert.

2 Red Delicious Apples
2 Golden Delicous or Granny Smith Apples
2 tablespoons each, mayonnaise and sour cream
3 stalks celery, diced
1 cup green grapes halved
1/2 cup walnuts, chopped
lemon juice and sugar to taste

1. Wash, cut and core apples. Do not peel. Cut into bite-size pieces. Place in a bowl and sprinkle with lemon juice.
2. Add diced celery, grape halves and walnuts
3. Mix sour cream and mayo together. Fold into salad. Chill for 2 hours.
4. Serve in individual glass compote cup. Sprinkle on chopped walnuts as a garnish.


How to Render Chicken Fat
(Adapted From the New Jewish Cookbook - Hebrew Publishing 1947)

Cut skin from any kind of fowl and remove fat.
Heat fat in a frying pan until it melts. Reserve in a jar.

For a special treat (I'm not kidding) the skin of the chicken and chopped onions would be fried in the chicken fat until crispy. Then drained on paper towels.
This is called Grieben. My mother says she and her brother would wait like little birds at the stove while my Nana made this. It rivals the skin on a roasted turkey.

Crabber keeps fishing in family

DEER ISLE, MAINE - Kelly Pratt, ninth generation Islander, has deep roots
in this part of the Maine coast. Legend has it her great-great-grandfather,
Julius Heanssler, found his way to a cove here in the late 1800s in a row boat and
never left. For generations, fishing has been the family's livelihood, and Pratt, 36,
keeps that tradition alive. She helped on her dad's lobster boat, has her own
crab-picking business, and is married to a lobsterman.

Tucked inside the inlets and coves of Sunshine Road under the dramatic light of
early evening, Pratt prepares to pick and package a crate of Peeky Toe crabs
(approximately 100 pounds, or more than 200 crabs) for sale to local markets and
beyond. She's had her own business for two years, and before that she picked for
10 years with her aunt and uncle.

This scene is not as common as it used to be in these parts. In the yard behind her
home is her newly built ''crab kitchen,'' where all the action takes place. Its
screened-in porch houses two huge pots that cook and cool the crabs. Inside the
kitchen, the crabs are split apart, refrigerated, picked, and packaged. This whole
operation once took place outside in her Uncle Dick's yard and garage, until Maine
issued new regulations on cottage industries.

These regulations ended some home businesses. Small home kitchen operations,
where women picked crabmeat to make pocket money, are all but gone in the
Deer Isle-Stonington area, down from about 400 to 40. Pratt hopes this season's
profits will pay for the expenses she incurred to stay in business.

Survivors like Pratt make the adjustment. Her screened-in porch ''is to protect
from airborne bacteria,'' she explains. In the double sink, she dilutes bleach to soak
and clean her utensils, and has thermometers to check the crab for doneness.

Minette Billings, manager of the North Atlantic Seafood Co., laments the
diminished supply of pickers, but buys only from state-approved operations.

''These girls are really good and their stuff is the best,'' she says. ''I sell it as fast as
they can pick.''

Life at the home of a crab picker means everyone is involved. In the kitchen, the
atmosphere is relaxed but busy. Country music plays on the radio, and sons
Jeremy, 12, and Andy, 11, are hanging around playing with a Game Boy and
helping make a big sign for the roadside that says, ''Kelly Pratt's Fresh Picked
Crabmeat.'' Everyone takes turns helping bait the traps that husband Jonathan sets
in the waters off Eastside Cove in Jericho Bay.

Jeremy explains the process of crab picking, with machine-gun speed. The crabs
are caught in the same traps as the lobsters and then crated. The crabs are taken
from the crate (not a favorite job, as the crabs pinch), placed in a huge basket, and
hung from a rope and winch system. Pratt swings the basketful of live crabs over
the vat and lowers it into about 30 gallons of boiling water. The crabs then cook for
40 minutes, or until they reach an internal temperature of 180 degrees. When they
are done, Pratt raises the basket of steaming crabs, and plunges them into cold
water.

The crabs are then pulled apart and separated into baskets of bodies, claws, and
legs. The bodies are picked while still warm with a small tool that looks like a seam
ripper. Pratt cracks the legs and claws with a tack hammer, and the meat is
scooped out. There are about 10 crabs to a pound of meat, and on a good day,
she will pick 20 pounds; nearly all are spoken for before her husband's boat docks.

Pratt says picking can be a ''lonely occupation,'' but often the women will help each
other. Tonight, Molly MacDonald, a friend and fellow picker with her own
business, comes by. MacDonald swiftly pulls a crab from the bubbling water. The
thermometer is inserted into its body and reads 160 degrees. Back in it goes until it
reaches 180. Once it does, the pace of activity increases to a speed only achieved
by the experienced and admired by the uninitiated. Hot crabs spill onto the counter
for McDonald and Pratt to break, tear, and toss. A task that looks as if it would
take hours is completed in about 30 minutes.

Jonathan Pratt comes in to test his haul, and cracks the claw of a crab with the butt
of his knife. Deftly, the tip of the blade slips the warm meat from the shell and he
holds out an offering. The briny sweet taste is simple and pure.

''Doesn't get any better than that, does it?'' says the tanned lobsterman. With hands
and shells and crab flying, but never missing a beat, his wife and McDonald chat,
and to the amusement of all, over the radio comes the song ''Take This Job and
Shove It.''

April through September is picking season, and Pratt picks about three times a
week.

She also has a catering business specializing in shore dinners (lobster, clams, and corn), and she cooks at a campground. In fall and winter, she sews colorful quilts
for sale during the summer.

After three hours, more than 200 crabs are boiled, soaked, cracked, and sorted.
Bodies are picked, and shreds of white and red-flecked crabmeat fall into a
growing mound. Pratt is only half done, though. The remaining claws and legs are
refrigerated for picking tomorrow. It's 10:30 p.m., but before she can turn out the
lights, puddles of crab juice need mopping, counters need wiping.

When asked if she has time for a hot bath before bed, Pratt, flushed from the heat
and activity, says, ''Now wouldn't that be nice.''

Cool Ades

¡Es muy caldo! (Spanish) Atsui nee! (Japanese) What a way it hot - mi well thirsty - mi need fi cool down (Jamaican patois)

Is it hot enough for you? No matter how you express it, summer brings on the heat, the sweat, and a very big thirst. And culture can matter when trying to keep your cool.

We are all aware of the need to keep well hydrated but did you know that water makes up approximately 60% of your body's weight? Water helps regulate the body's temperature, carries nutrients throughout the body and aids in digestion. That is why it is important to drink plenty of water, especially during the summer months. But we lose water quickly through perspiration, making us susceptible to dehydration. Children ages 2-6 should drink five to six cups (one cup = 8 ounces) of liquid each day; kids 6-12, six to eight cups, adolescents and adults ?? cups. The more active you are, the more fluids you need.

Water is great, but can get a bit boring. Caffeinated, sugar-laden carbonated drinks abound and entice, but add empty calories and do little but leave you wanting more. How often do you see people walking around with those 32 ounce mega cups of colas? In reality they are drinking gargantuan amounts of sugar-- X tablespoons in one hit. Yikes! Certainly it is the right concept-- sipping huge amounts of liquid in a colorful colossal cup-- but the wrong combination. Why not save those calories for an ice cream?

Sugar need not be the enemy and does help provide energy. It's the amount used that can be controlled by making your own drinks. Of course lemon and lime ades need a lot of sweetening or you will be walking around with a permanent pucker. However you don't need as much as you think. It's a matter of re-training the taste buds.

For the cost of one of those giant drinks you can make a day's worth of beverages for the entire office or for a block full of kids-- and have fun too. In a week's time you can taste test thirst quenchers from half a dozen countries, expand your kid's culinary and geographic boundaries and do it with a nutritious twist.

Many cultures use fruit to flavor water therefore providing a natural sweetness. In Mexico, aguas frescas-- fresh water-- is a very common drink made from a variety of fruit pulps and water, such as pineapple, papaya, watermelon, strawberry, cantaloupe and tamarind. Street vendors in stalls serve up this refreshing and colorful drink from big glass jars with ladles. Preparing aguas frescas is easy and fun and can be done at home. Watermelon, a very popular flavor is refreshing, and a beautiful pink color. Buy a seedless watermelon or make removing the seeds an activity for the kids: Can they guess how many seeds in half a watermelon?

Sky Juice is a drink that is enjoyed in the Caribbean country of Jamaica. Also sold by street vendors, large blocks of ice are shaved and these shavings are put in a small plastic bag. Some fruit syrup flavoring is added. A straw is placed in the bag and as the heat of the sun melts the ice, flavors blend and sipping ensues for a very cool treat.

Kakigori-- shaved ice-- is the sno-cone of Japan. Mariko Takinami Brothers formerly from Japan, now living in Brookline with her two children, remembers hot summer days when she'd beg some money from her mother, grab her best friend and they would go to an old grandmother's shop window to buy melon, lemon or strawberry flavored kaki gori. "Kids, just love it. I was so happy that I would eat the ices too fast and my head would get so cold I would have to hit it." A colorful, inviting banner hangs from these little 'mom and pop' stores that sell hot bean paste filled waffles in the winter. Mariko dreamily describes the one adults favor - green tea syrup over the shaved ice topped with sweet azuki beans. "For a little extra yen the obaachan (grandmother/proprietor) would drip sweetened condensed milk over the peak-- that was heaven."

And what about one of our own summer drinks? Smoothies are a cool and nutritious blend of fruit juice and yogurt. Rumor has them coming from California, but smoothies have relatives all over the world: Batidos in Puerto Rico, frulatti in Italy, and mango lassis in India are all first cousins.

All it takes is a blender, a hand cranked ice shaver, some funky cups and a few crazy straws-- equipment that adds up to less than a day at the movies for a family of five. And you get to keep the stuff! Making smoothies is an activity in which all ages can participate and the words "I'm bored," can be met with the exhortation - "press the ?? button and pipe down."

While plenty of plain old water-- plain or fizzy-- is still your best choice for a healthy diet, adding these drinks and frozen treats to your repertoire will add a little variety, education, and excitement.


Aguas Frescas (Mexico - 2 quarts)

2 cups of your favorite fruit, such as watermelon, cantaloupe, pineapple, strawberries
2 quarts of water
sugar to taste

1. Put the fruit in the blender
with 2 cups of water and blend.
2. Mix this with the rest of the water (6 cups) in a pitcher and stir well.
3. Add sugar to taste.
4. Add some ice cubes

*For fruit such as limes and oranges, you squeeze the juice of the fruit (6-8 pieces) directly in the pitcher with the water and sugar.


Strawberry Orange-Banana Smoothie (United States - 2 large servings)

2 cups orange juice
1 cup frozen banana, cut in chunks
(don't throw those soft bananas away - freeze them)
1 cup fresh or frozen strawberries
1/2 cup nonfat plain or vanilla yogurt
1 cup ice cubes

Procedure

1. Place all ingredients in blender and process until smooth and foamy. For a thicker Smoothie add ice cubes.

Sky Juice (Jamaica)

Make your own Sky Juice for a great summer fruit cooler.

5 cups crushed ice
1 can frozen fruit juice concentrate
20 sandwich size plastic bags
10 plastic straws, cut in half ribbon

1. Put ice cubes in 2 large plastic bags.
With a rolling pin, hit the ice crushed.
Divide into 20 bags.
2. Make frozen juice with half the amount of water indicated on the package.
3. Spoon about 1-2 tablespoons of juice on top of the ice.
4. Place straws in bag and tie a colorful ribbon around the top.

*You may need to add a little water to get the ice to start melting if you are serving this inside.
*Another way to make this is to place ice and juice in a blender. Process until a slush is formed.

Think simple for at-home weddings
Proper planning should help you put together a memorable affair

Scene 1:

''Hi Mom, I have a great surprise for you: Ilsa and I got married last week here in Berlin. We are coming home next month so you can meet her. Do you think we could have a small wedding at the house for some friends and family? No big deals, please.''

Fade to speechless and stunned mother.

Scene 2:

''Honey, I met the most wonderful man at my line-dancing class. We are getting married next month. Can we do a small reception for 25 at your house? Nothing fancy.''

Fade to shocked and frantic daughter.

Whether it's the first or second time around, an at-home wedding sounds like a big deal, even for something as small as 25 guests. On such short notice and at the height of the season, caterers are likely to be unavailable and you want to do better than deli platters. Don't panic. You can do this. Breathe deeply and start planning. It is easier than you imagine and actually can be fun.

Think cold. Think simple. Think single-ingredient dishes. Prepare about two hours a day starting four days in advance. Hire - or coax - someone to help on the day of the party and you can feel almost like a guest. The goal is to reduce the amount of slicing and dicing, chopping and schlepping so you have a smile on your face that is sincere.

Serve buffet-style with several tables around for seating. Pull out all your dishes; things do not have to match. Four of this, six of that, eight of something else makes the table interesting. Serve foods that do not need to be cut, reducing the amount of cutlery. Roll the fork in a napkin for easy handling when going through the line. Prepare two large platters of each item so you are ready to replace an empty plate instantly.

It is important to spend money on quality ingredients; they will save you time in the end. Shrimp that is shelled and deveined is more expensive , but you have saved your back hours of standing over the sink and thus have time to make a more interesting marinade. Although more expensive than a whole turkey, fresh turkey breasts are easy to cook and go a long way. Rub with fresh rosemary, coarse salt, and pepper. Roast and baste with V-8 juice. Refrigerate and slice the next day.

Roasted vegetable medleys are great but not when you are cutting, peeling, and trimming several varieties for 25 people. Better to make a spectacular splash with a comely mound of asparagus and a great dressing.

When cooking, keep in mind that buffet servings are not calculated the same as sit-down meals. With several choices, guests usually take less of each one. Figure about 1/4 pound of meat per person and about 3/4 cup of each side dish. Shrimp defies calculations; rule of thumb is 4-6 per person, but we all have seen people park themselves in front of these platters popping shrimp in their mouth at an alarming rate. Buy plenty.

An open bar is unnecessary. It doesn't matter that Uncle Max likes 25-year-old scotch. Nor do you have to have every brand of soda on the market. We often anticipate negative waves that just don't materialize. One type of juice, usually cranberry, sparkling water, cola, wine, and perhaps a Bellini cocktail (made with Asti Spumante or non-alcoholic sparkling cider and crushed strawberries) are nice offerings for a summer's day. (Remember, this is lunch.)

Now for dessert. A big glass punch bowl full of strawberries makes a beautiful presentation. Don't even remove the hulls. Serve with bowls of sour cream and brown sugar for a traditional New England dipping experience. Then try this strawberry-filled Angel Food Tunnel Cake as a creative alternative to a traditional wedding cake. You can assemble this light and delicious cake a week in advance. It will be festive, seasonal, and most important, you never turn on the oven. You will not be sent to cook's purgatory for using a store-bought cake. This is a snap.

Shop with a list, stick to your menu, and don't get seduced by great buys. They are not great if they create more work. Try not to second-guess yourself; that is the hardest thing.

Jo-Jo's Spicy Marinated Citrus Shrimp (Adapted from a recipe in Gourmet 1999 - Serves 25)

6 pounds uncooked large shrimp, shelled and deveined
Marinade:
1 orange
1/4 cup water
2 limes
1/4 cup sugar
2 lemons
2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon coriander powder
4 tablespoons kosher salt
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons McCormack's pickling spice
3/4 cup rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons tarragon

Remove the zest (skin) and pith (white inner coating) from the orange, lemons, and limes. Squeeze the juices into a large bowl. Add zests, coriander powder, oil, vinegar, sugar, tarragon, mustard, red pepper, water, and 3 tablespoons kosher salt, and mix well with a whisk.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the pickling spices and 1 tablespoon salt and cook the shrimp (in two batches, if necessary) for about 11/2 minutes. Drain in colander and put shrimp in marinade while warm. Mix to coat.

Divide into large plastic bags and refrigerate overnight in flat layers.

Serve Cold.

Cold Grilled Flank Steak in Honey French Dressing Marinade (Serves 25)

7 pounds flank steak
Marinade
Make this easy honey French dressing or use bottled.
2/3 cup honey
2/3 cup chili sauce
2 cups salad oil (canola is best)
3/4 cup white vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1 onion, grated
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

Wash and dry flank steaks. Place in deep foil pans. Rub in garlic and onion powders, salt, pepper and paprika.

Mix all marinade ingredients together well. Pour over steaks and refrigerate at least four hours or overnight. (To prepare even further ahead, place steaks and marinade in plastic bags, seal, and freeze. Thaw before cooking.)

Fire up the grill and cook steaks 7-8 minutes per side. Remove from grill. Let cool. Wrap in foil and refrigerate.

Slice steaks when cold, against the grain. Serve with grained mustard.

Asparagus with Sesame Mayonnaise

5 bunches asparagus
1 lemon, sliced
Dressing
1 cup light mayonnaise
1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 cup plain yogurt
2-3 tablespoons sesame oil
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup roasted sesame seeds
kosher salt

Trim bottom off asparagus spears. Cut spears in half on diagonal.

Bring a large pot of water to boiling. Add lemon slices. Cook asparagus for 3 minutes, in batches if necessary. Plunge spears into cold water and drain. Chill up to one day in refrigerator.

Mix all dressing ingredients except sesame seeds and salt in a large bowl.

Pile half the asparagus on a large serving plate. Toss with 2-3 teaspoons kosher salt.

Just before serving put on half the dressing and toss. Sprinkle on sesame seeds. Do same with the second platter.

Strawberry Mousse Angel Food Cake

This no-bake wedding cake is an assembly project and can be done a week in advance. Make 3 cakes for 25 people.

1 store-bought angel food cake
1 quart strawberries - half for filling, half for decorating
2 cups whipping cream or non-dairy whipped topping
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1 envelope unflavored gelatin
1 teaspoon vanilla
boiling water
fresh mint for decoration

Cut a 2-inch deep slice across the top of the cake. Remove the piece and reserve.

Cut a bowl from the interior of the cake, leaving walls and bottom of cake at least 1 inch thick. You are creating a cavity for the filling.

Crush 1 cup fresh strawberries with a potato masher.

Whip 2 cups of fresh cream with 1/2 cup powdered sugar. Stir in vanilla.

Soften gelatin in 1 tablespoon cold water. Mix with 2 tablespoons boiling water until dissolved. Add to crushed strawberries.

Place half the whipped cream in a bowl. Reserve remainder for frosting. Fold in strawberries.

Fill the cavity of the cake with mixture. Place circle back on top of the cake.

Let set in refrigerator for an hour. Freeze and then frost while frozen with remaining whipped cream.

Remove from freezer 1/2 hour before serving. Place on platter. Decorate around the base with strawberry halves and fresh mint.

For all levels of play, winning diet is key

Cleats? Check. Sneakers? Check. Bats? Check. Shin guards? Check. Frisbee? Check.
Snacks and water? Check. Breakfast? Oops.

''Food is fuel for the body,'' says Walter Norton Jr., strength and conditioning coach for the Boston Breakers, the women' professional soccer team.

''If you are not fueled properly, you are going to run out of gas,'' adds Ellen Lowre, registered dietician at Brigham and Women's Hospital.

That metaphor for eating right throughout the day is echoed by athletes and by their nutritionists and coaches. All also say unequivocally: Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. It is part of a refueling process that replenishes the energy expended the previous day and jumpstarts the upcoming day. The nutrients missed by not eating breakfast are not often made up.

Experts say nutrition has to be a central concern for all athletes - amateur and pro, schoolchildren and adults, including the weekend joggers and tennis players. Episodic bouts of ''eating well'' do not make for optimal performance.

''Team athletes are judged on their ability to replicate their performances,'' says Norton. The Breakers' philosophy involves practicing hard, getting rest, and eating well and enough to get their bodies back to square one.

With up to two practices daily, and multiple games weekly, these women expend so much energy during the season that 2,500-3,000 calories a day is a must to keep up their strength and refuel their bodies. (By contrast, a moderately active woman can maintain her weight with roughly 1,500-2,000 calories, depending on her weight, height, and age.)

Consistently eating well helps store energy. Meals high in carbohydrates and lean proteins and low in fat at least three hours before playing allow time for digestion and absorption of nutrients.

Tracy Ducar of Andover, the Breakers' goalkeeper, says, ''I enjoy cooking, so this is not so hard.'' She tries to eat three meals a day and snack in between with good sources of protein, and she drinks plenty of water. Her teammate, forward Allie Kemp, likes a shake of plain yogurt, milk, a banana, and 1 or 2 tablespoons of peanut butter for extra protein. Ducar is lactose intolerant and gets calcium from soy milk and yogurt.

High-sugar foods or sweetened drinks can give a false rush of energy but won't sustain you. Sugar also inhibits water absorption. Proper hydration before, during, and after a game is essential. Sixteen ounces of fluid prior to a game, 4-8 ounces every 15-20 minutes during intense activity, and 16 ounces of water post activity is recommended.

Joan Buchbinder, registered dietician and sports nutritionist for the Patriots, says, ''The main electrolytes lost while sweating are sodium and potassium. Replacement of these nutrients is key.'' Sports drinks are popular for this reason. A diluted drink of three cups water, 1 cup juice (grape, apple, orange) with a teaspoon or two of salt is a homemade alternative.

''You repair muscles with protein and refuel with carbohydrates,'' says Buchbinder.Athletes have a one-hour window to repair those muscles, says Norton. Liquids carry the needed nutrients through the body fast, so his team has a shake high in carbohydrates and protein. Lowre suggests post-game snacks such as peanut butter and jelly on whole wheat, trail mix with dried fruit,
peanut or almond butter on apple slices, and yogurt with fruit.

Assistant Coach Jorge Espinoza sets the meal plan for the New England Revolution, the men's professional soccer team. Revolution members eat together three times a week and stay away from fried foods. Fresh fruit and water are always available. A favorite of Espinoza is pineapple, which he feels aids in digestion and has valuable nutrients. Knowing that muscles fatigue faster as one
ages, defender Ted Chronopoulos tries to replenish his lost nutrients within a half hour after the game.

Those are the professional athletes. Then there are the rest of us: T-ballers, skateboarders, joggers, and play-grounders. The same concepts apply, though. Protein bars and sports drinks have their place, but there is no substitute for good eating habits.

Still, we wonder: Do the athletes, impressive in their knowledge of nutrition, ever give into the craving for an order of large fries? Sure. Nutritionists and coaches know that banning foods is futile.

As Kemp says, ''We work so hard, we should treat ourselves and not feel deprived.''

Ducar's weakness is the fruity, chewy candies Skittles and Starbursts. The Breakers have ''found every ice cream place in Boston,'' says a teammate in the know. For Chronopolous, it's chocolate cake.

Make-your-own sundaes is a popular dessert for the Revolutions' after-game meals.

Tracy Ducar's Tasty Pre-Game Chicken and Pasta (Serves 2)

1-2 cups of uncooked noodles
1 whole boneless chicken breast or 2 halves, cut into bite-size pieces
Breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 red pepper, cut into small strips or chunks
1/2 yellow pepper, cut into small strips or chunks
1/2 Vidalia onion, cut into strips
3/4 cup chopped tomatoes (grape tomatoes or cherry are also good)
1/2 cup small broccoli florets
1/4 cup sliced mushrooms
1/4 cup pine nuts
1 tablespoon butter
1/2-1 cup of your favorite spaghetti sauce
2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese
Dash of salt
1/2-1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
Shredded skim mozzarella cheese

Rinse chicken and pat dry. Cut off all fat and cut chicken into bite-size pieces. Roll pieces in breadcrumbs until covered. Set aside.

Start cooking the noodles.

Add 1 tablespoon olive oil to a large non-stick skillet on medium heat.

Saute chicken until the breadcrumbs are golden brown. You may need to add more oil if the pan dries out. Add it slowly and sparingly.

Mix 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese, garlic powder, and crushed red pepper flakes in a small bowl and sprinkle on chicken.

Cook another three minutes until center of chicken is done. Place chicken on several paper towels to absorb excess oil.

Wipe skillet clean with a moist paper towel. Add remaining olive oil and reheat pan on medium heat Saute vegetables and pine nuts for 2 minutes.

Mix noodles, chicken, vegetables, and spaghetti sauce in a large, oven-proof dish. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese. Sprinkle mozzarella cheese over top.

Bake at 375 for 5 minutes to melt cheese and crisp upper noodles in the casserole.

Enjoy!

Malcom White's Ultimate Frisbee Trail Mix (Measurement by ''the handful.'')

Equal amounts of:
Soy nuts
Raisins
Chocolate chips
Cashews
Dried fruit: cranberries, apricots, apple, dates

Mix in large bowl, and divide into individual plastic bags.

Post Game Fruit Shake (Serves 2)

1 1/2 cup pineapple juice
1 cup frozen strawberries
1 banana
1-2 tablespoons powdered milk
1/2 cup ice cubes

Place pineapple juice and powdered milk in blender and blend for 30 seconds.

Add ice cubes, frozen strawberries, and banana cut in half.
Blend until smooth and frothy.

What's for lunch? Mom may be surprised

NAOMI Joshi, mother of three and director of a nonprofit organization in Boston, still happily packs a lunch for her 15-year-old daughter, Emily, throwing in a sesame bagel with whipped cream cheese, a yogurt stick, a bottle of sparkling water, an apple, carrot sticks, and a package of graham cracker cookies.

''This is one way I know that she will have something nourishing to eat and she does appreciate it,'' says Joshi.

But do we really have control over what our children eat at school?

It is no surprise that the greatest number of children bringing lunch from home is in the elementary grades. At the Cyrus E. Dallin Elementary School in Arlington, students eat lunch in their classrooms. One day recently, the members of Susan Dreskin's kindergarten class spilled the contents of their cool canvas lunch bags - with mini ice packs and pockets for every purpose - onto the tables. The usual suspects appeared: peanut butter and jelly, bologna and cheese sandwiches, crackers, juice boxes, chips, pudding-in-a-cup, cookies, pretzels, fruit roll-ups, some carrot sticks, some fruit.

The children were eager to tell who made their lunch (mostly mom) and who decided what was packed (mostly mom). What would parents say, though, if they knew their children were eating their meal backward? Snacks first, two bites of a sandwich, and finito.

There were plenty of new hyper-convenient products, among them packaged lunches with deli meat and cheese squares, drink, and snacks, including a whopping 50 percent of the daily allowance for sodium. Tyler had ''portable yogurt'' in a tube. He squeezed, and aqua-colored, cotton candy-flavored yogurt oozed. ''Wanna taste?''

Standing by the trash can was illuminating. Much of the lunches was thrown away; barely eaten sandwiches were dumped. Linda Baker, mother of four, was on lunch duty and said she feels the kindergartners were bringing too much food for such little stomachs. ''These kids have snack at 10 and lunch at 11,'' she said. ''They are not that hungry.''

One little girl, Amelia, brought pizza, which she licked for 15 minutes, then gnawed mouse-like around the edges, and threw away.

In a third-grade class, the boys and girls sat separately, by choice. Though peanut butter still outnumbered other sandwiches, there was more variety and most said they made the requests and parents complied. Salads, kiwi, tuna, grapes, hot soup, bagels, and yogurt accompanied multiple snacks. Most of the lunches were consumed, but still there was significant waste.

According to Mary Scott, teacher's assistant and lunch monitor, ''The kids are given way too many snacks and then throw away most of the food. Parents should pack good lunches and what the kids really eat.''

Phoebe, a vegetarian, had vanilla yogurt, fruit, muffin, and water. Great meal, but she hovered about her friends waiting for leftover tater puffs.

At the Ralph B. O'Maley Middle School in Gloucester, Mark Lidano, food service director for the Gloucester public schools, said about 60 percent of the students buy from the school lunch program, and middle-school students are tough to please.

One recent day, friends Heidi, Emily, Katie, and Lauren giggled as they displayed their lunches. The girls had an average of at least five items each and the sandwiches seemed incidental.

''Middle-school kids are always hungry,'' said sixth-grade teacher Tina Cirarametaro. Indeed, very little food was thrown away.

Peanut butter was still popular and parents were still making the lunches. Stacy, an articulate sixth-grader, said her mom knew by now what she liked: tuna, yogurt, chips, and punch, all packed neatly with an ice pack.

Ross said, ''My Mom makes the sandwich, I pack the extras.''

Amid his protests, several hands were grabbing for those extras.

The line for food was long and the search for brown baggers brief during a recent visit to Cambridge Rindge and Latin School's atrium-like cafeteria. Ninth-graders Ben and Paul said they usually bring their lunch to avoid waiting in line. Ben had a bagel and cream cheese. He snorted when asked if either parent made his lunch.

Paul's mother made his, however: PB&J and a banana. He said sheepishly,
''I'm pampered.''

Two more lunch periods yielded only a few more students with packed lunches. Eyes rolled when students were questioned about what kept most of them from bringing lunch to school. Time and lack of choices were the answers.

Rob Clickstein, food service director for the Cambridge public schools, said few high school students bring lunch to school, although participation in the food service program is only 20 percent at the high school. Many students buy lunch off campus.

Some students eat nothing for lunch. Linda Baker's 11th-grade daughter at Arlington High School eats when she gets home and just has a cola at school. She says she doesn't have time to eat and the lines are too long. Her mother's take is that ''this is an age when you look a lot cooler drinking a Coke than eating a PB&J. There is definitely peer pressure.''

For the students who do bring lunch, the bag is empty when they return home, the money spent, and assurances given when asked, ''Did you have a good lunch today?''

Andrea Gulezian, a registered dietician with the University of Massachusetts Nutrition Education Program, says pointedly, ''It's a parent's responsibility to offer good food, and it's the child's responsibility to eat it.''

Gulezian, Clickstein, Lidano and Cindy Juncker, nurse leaader for the Gloucester public schools, offer these lunch tips for parents:

Reduce the number of snack foods.

Enhance the main food item.

Make lists and shop with the student.

Vary the breads: mini bagels, pita, rolls, lavosh.

Prepare most of the meal the night before.

Freeze sliced meat (in portions) and bread. They will thaw during the morning before lunch and keep the sandwich fresh.

Use small ice packs when sending perishables if the student is not eating the food within two hours.

Try new spreads: apple butter (a great alternative for children allergic to peanut butter), hummus, Ajvar (a roasted red pepper and eggplant spread).

Keep convenient, healthy foods available.

Offer three choices for main item. Let the student choose.

Try not to deny treats. They are fine in moderation. Children will find a way to have them even if they are not allowed.

When the lunch bell rings, teachers run

NEWTON - It's Burr Elementary School at 12:25 p.m. Stomachs are growling, excitement is mounting.

''Line up!'' Squeals of delight and they're off to the lunchroom - the teachers' lunchroom. It is ''Salad Bar Wednesday'' for the second-lunch-period teachers and almost nothing gets between them and their meal. No stopping in the halls for a chat. They're going to enjoy their 30 minutes of camaraderie with a group lunch.

''Lunch?'' you ask. ''What's the big deal?''

It's a very big deal to some people who must eat lunch where they work. Lacking a cafeteria or tiring of brown bagging, any number of workplace groups have formed to make lunch a special treat.

For the mix of fifth-grade teachers, teacher's assistants, the librarian, and other specialists at Burr Elementary, every Wednesday has been an event. That day, the group creates a salad bar, with each person contributing one item.''The goal,'' says former Burr teacher Lucia Kegan, who helped start the event, ''was to have a good lunch without doing much work. It was easy, inexpensive, and everyone agreed on the contents. Elementary school teachers need that time to be as pleasant and rejuvenating as possible.''

Cathy Mahar, a teacher's assistant, says the weekly event is ''a great social thing with a very festive feel. We all really look forward to it.''

Fresh greens, cherry tomatoes, artichokes, tabbouleh, feta cheese, olives, sprouts, walnuts, chick peas, and beets pile into the fridge. The teachers have their items ready, so as not to waste a minute of time preparing when 12:30 rolls around.''

There was nothing we didn't do that wasn't very simple,'' said Jane Frantz, referring to the early days of the group.

All agree that Kalpana Guttman's homemade dressing makes the salad. The dressing is simplicity itself: a half cup each of olive oil and balsamic vinegar and 1 tablespoon of Grey Poupon mustard.

Recalled Josh Kershenbaum: ''On Tuesday afternoon, I began to anticipate lunch on Wednesday. I knew this is one meal I could count on.'' (It seems it took Josh a little time to get the hang of things, though. The first time it was his turn to bring in the greens, he arrived with a bunch of parsley, insisting it qualified, being both leafy and green. That only happened once.)

The success of this non-cooking event lies in a comfortable and very doable pattern. The size of the group assures a variety of items. Nothing is left to chance. When asked how they determine who brings what, the librarian, Laura Mayer, produces a printed chart with columns: beans, beets, bread, carrots, celery, croutons, cucumber. Principal Cynthia Bencal points out the list is in alphabetical order.

Kalpana sums it up: ''Our group is really a metaphor for people coming together. Each brings something different and what is regular on its own is really quite wonderful when put all together.''

Kegan is now at the Memorial Spaulding School in Newton. They already had a soup club, and she was invited to join. Their approach is slightly different: One person cooks for everyone each Monday. The good thing is each person cooks only twice a semester; the bad thing is it requires a very big pot.

The agreement was to go basically vegetarian. Gazpacho, chili, cream of peanut soup, and minestrone were a few of the favorites, and there is always great bread. The challenge is keeping the soup warm without burning it over several lunch periods. How do you spell success? An empty pot!

At Grace Chapel in Lexington, Merry McCann and Lorraine King are weekly Bible study leaders. Once a month, their groups share a meal with several others. A theme is chosen, and everyone contributes accordingly. Some popular themes have been quiches, baked potatoes with toppings, fresh vegetables and dips. Once, everyone made one sandwich and cut it into quarters to share.''

Food is not the focal point, but conversation and food go hand in hand,'' says McCann.

Teachers at the Linden School in Malden go gourmet frequently throughout the year, with a catered meal arranged through their ''flower fund'' and $5 from each participant. According to teacher Jane Murphy, ''it's such a treat and really is something to look forward to. We just had a delicious clam chowder in a bread bowl with salad, lemon tarts, and other pastries for dessert.''

And you thought a ''food group'' referred only to ''legumes'' or ''dairy products?''

Little-known lunch fact:
Keith Lockhart, music director of the Boston Pops, says: ''I brown bagged most of the time while I was growing up. My mom was the 'sandwich queen'. She used to teach bread making and would make our sandwiches on this great bread. I remember her freezing four or five different kinds of sandwiches (roast pork, meatloaf, chicken) so we could have a variety right out of the freezer. My weirdest favorite, though, was a cream cheese sandwich on raisin bread with fresh slices of green pepper stuck in it and a Glad bag full of cherry tomatoes. I used to eat them like candy.''

Salad Bar Blueprint for Ten
Think taste, texture, and tones.

Basics:

2 varieties of greens: baby spinach, romaine, Boston, red leaf lettuces, watercress
2 packages grape or cherry tomatoes
1 container radish sprouts
1 bag baby carrots (do not slice)
2 English cucumbers, sliced (no peeling)
2 cups croutons
2 cups beans (white, red, chickpeas)
2 peppers, red, yellow, or green

Things that make it special:

1/2 pound crumbled feta or goat cheese
1 cup nuts (toasted) such as pecans, walnuts
1 cup dried cranberries
1 cup olives
2 cup taboulleh
1 lb. tortellini, cooked and marinated in a dressing
1 cup sunflower seeds
From the can, drained and ready Tuna (packed in water)
BeetsArtichokes, quartered
2 loaves good bread

Let each person create his or her individual salad from whichever ingredients they like.

Creamy Italian Dressing (Makes 2 cups)

1 cup light mayonnaise
1 cup plain low-fat yogurt
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon oregano
2 teaspoons dry mustard
3 scallions, chopped finely
salt and pepper

Combine all ingredients and mix until smooth. Chill.

Alice's Escarole and Meatball Soup

Serves 10

10 cups chicken stock
1 pound ground beef
1/4 pound ground pork
1 egg
1/2 cup breadcrumbs
1/4 cup parmesan cheese
1/2 cup parsley
2 cloves garlic minced or 2 teaspoons garlic powder
salt and pepper to taste
1 head escarole
3 carrots, peeled and chopped
3/4 cup uncooked mini-macaroni or ditalini

Heat chicken stock to simmering. Mix beef, pork, egg, breadcrumbs, cheese, parsley, garlic and seasonings. Form into very small meatballs.

Wash escarole and chop roughly. Add meatballs, carrots, and escarole to stock. Cook on low heat until meatballs are almost cooked through, about 25 minutes.

Add pasta and cook another 10 minutes. Season to taste.

Serve hot with extra cheese.

Secret to a luncheon feast is finally out of the bag

She unfurls her cloth napkin. She lays out her silverware. The aroma of a real meal emanates from under the lid just lifted. With anticipation, she begins her lunch. Everyone asks: ''Do you eat like this every day?'' Inadequacy is in the air. Excuses are floating thick and fast. Lunch mates reach into wrinkled paper bags, scrounge in the communal kitchen drawer for flimsy plastic forks, stare woefully at flattened cheese sandwiches, containers of wilted lettuce, and lone pieces of bruised fruit. Some wait in line at the microwave to nuke Noodle-in-a-Cup, a.k.a. sodium-lover's delight. With little enthusiasm, lunch begins. Their colleague Joanne Rizzi, director of cultural programs at The Children's Museum in Boston, however, eats her lunch there with a cloth napkin and real fork and knife. ''My mother grew up in Europe,'' she says. ''They didn't know from plastic, and it wasn't allowed in my house. I never could get her words out of my head ... and food just doesn't taste right using that stuff.'' As for the cloth napkin, she says she's saving a few trees. This is a scene familiar to many, played out in lunchrooms everywhere.

Where do you fit in? Maybe you spend several dollars a day buying lunch and eating more than you intended. Perhaps you are the brown bagger. Or are you one of those who bring appetizing lunches that look like pictures in a food magazine. Who has time to fuss like that? Siobhan O'Connor, office manager at Harris, Miller, Miller, and Hanson, a noise environmental consulting firm in Burlington, is just that person who, according to colleague Gail Landry, ''always has the most nicely presented and attractive meals.'' Fifteen minutes before a companywide staff meeting at 11:45 a.m., their lunchroom is packed with people foraging in the fridge and lining up at the microwave. O'Connor removes her food from a plastic container with several dividers and arranges it on a plate - a pottery plate, not paper. ''I am always on a diet, so the food has to look good or I'm not interested,'' she says. Her fresh spinach, carrots, pea pods, cottage cheese, and sliced kiwi create a colorful and edible palette. She put the ingredients together that morning in 5 minutes. Drizzling a capful of balsamic vinegar on the greens, she turns to Margo Olson: ''I just found out how nutritious raw spinach is.'' Olson has sliced turkey and celery in a wrap with mustard, and cucumber slices, an orange, and a Diet Coke. The microwave crowd has left-over pasta, canned soup, Lean Cuisine, and one young college intern, Andrew Schmidt, has Mexican lasagna. ''I'm so excited,'' he says. ''This is the best lunch I've had in two weeks.'' An inquiry reveals he made it himself the previous night, not a common occurrence, it seems. Nick Miller, president of the company, has been making his own lunch of tuna fish with mayo and lettuce on a roll every day for 20 years. Yes, tuna. Every day. ''It's healthy and fast,'' he says, ''but I have been thinking about a change. It is getting a little boring.''

There are many ways to ''dine'' at lunch that are neither too taxing nor so time consuming that it becomes unthinkable. Keep a colorful plate, glass, your own set of silverware, and a few nice napkins at work. It is amazing how attractive broccoli and a few cherry tomatoes look on blue. Keep a few staples in your drawer. Lunch is not always about sandwiches. Bring a sweet potato that cooks in the microwave in about 8 minutes (poke holes all over so the skin doesn't burst). Split it, and suddenly colleagues will start sniffing around. ''I smell, uh, Thanksgiving.'' Mash it with a fork and let the sweetness speak for itself. It also packs a
powerful nutrition punch, is higher in calories than a regular baked potato, but you need no butter or salt. Think about all that Vitamin A and beta carotene; your body will thank you. If you are making a nice meal for dinner, double the recipe - heck, triple it - and get some mileage for your efforts. Tired of leftovers? With a splash of ketchup and a cup of mixed frozen vegetables, you can have a whole new meal. Last night's meatloaf and mashed potatoes become tomorrow's shepherd's pie. Use and re-use some of those snazzy new disposable sectioned containers that go in the microwave. For dessert, cut half a pear and half an apple into slices, sprinkle on some sugar and cinnamon or maple syrup, and when you heat your meal, you'll have a great treat. If you have any half and half, spoon a teaspoon or two over the warm fruit. It will taste like pie á la mode.

Don't pass up that supermarket special on eight chicken breasts. Cook them all at the same time and freeze a few, wrapped individually. Later, slice on a diagonal and arrange artfully on a bed of lettuce for an inspiring lunch.

Little-known lunch fact:

Liz Walker, WBZ-TV news anchor, has fond memories of her mother fixing her lunch when she was a child. ''My mom was a teacher, and the morning ritual would be to make both of our lunches together. Sometimes, it was peanut butter and jelly, sometimes tuna. There was always a piece of fruit, cookies, and sweet pickles. But it wasn't what she made as much as it was that she wrapped everything individually, so neatly in waxed paper. It was the presentation. I knew I was blessed that someone would take the time to do this for me.'' For Walker's 13-year-old son, Nick, she has tried to do the same thing.

Zesty Grilled Lime Chicken (Serves 4)

4 boneless and skinless chicken breasts
juice of 1 or 2 limes
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil

Wash chicken and pat dry. Squeeze fresh lime juice directly onto the chicken. Mix spices, and rub into the chicken. Place in a bowl with olive oil and marinate for half an hour. Heat a cast iron grill pan (with ridges, if possible) until very hot. Brush a little olive oil onto the pan. Cook chicken for about 4 minutes on each side or until the chicken is cooked through but still moist. Slice on the diagonal and serve with white or brown rice and steamed broccoli. Use leftovers for following lunch recipe.

Grilled Chicken on Greens (Lunch for one)

1 cup fresh mixed salad greens or raw spinach, washed and torn into pieces
3/4 cup canned mandarin orange sections
Sliced celery, cherry tomatoes
1 grilled chicken breast, sliced (see above)
1/2 cup pecans, walnuts, or almonds, roughly chopped

Arrrange greens on a plate. Toss mandarin orange sections, celery, and cherry tomatoes, and place atop the greens. Slice chicken on the diagonal, or shred and place on top of the vegetables. Sprinkle on the nuts. Drizzle on dressing just before eating. Note for vegetarians: Freeze a block of tofu in a plastic bag. Defrost and drain all the water by pressing the tofu. It is now ready to cook. Slice and saute in a little sesame oil, crushed ginger, and garlic. The consistency is like cooked chicken. Shred and use on salad.

Dressing Makes (1/4 cup)

1 tablespoon light soy sauce, pinch of sugar, salt and pepper
1 tablespoon oil
3 tablespoons orange juicedash of sesame oil Mix all ingredients with a whisk or shake in a jar.