Feeding on the many flavors of Stockholm

STOCKHOLM - Situated in an archipelago of thousands of islands, Stockholm is one of the most beautifully situated capitals in the world. After long winters, its frozen waterways are finally cleared of ice floes, and its tour boats ferry visitors in and out of its many harbors. By late March, it is warm enough to sit outside, and the city's streets and parks are crowded with diners bathed in the lengthening sunlight hours. By June and July, it never gets dark.

The waterways define the neighborhoods. Gamla Stan is the enchanting old town with cobble-stone streets, a royal palace, and low, colorful buildings hundreds of years old. Across the way stands the ''newer city'' where Victorian- and Edwardian-era buildings stand alongside their sleek and modern neighbors we've come to identify with Scandinavian design.

Stockholm may not be an obvious destination for an epicurean, but this sophisticated northern European city should be added to the list. The city's culinary status is on the rise. In addition to traditional Swedish fare, multiethnic restaurants are abundant now. You will find smorgasbords (the original all-you-can-eat buffet) and schnapps aplenty; or go for the homegrown and traditional fare: wonderfully varied herrings, great beer and cheeses, reindeer medallions, and cloudberries (a tart little yellow berry made into sauces and jams).

Swedes speak English nearly as well as we do, so you never have to worry about getting lost. Ask for directions and listen as the answer is punctuated by the intakes of breath characteristic of some Scandinavian languages.

You can walk everywhere in Stockholm, and it is easy to get around by train (Tunnelbana) and bus. But know where you are going and pay attention, for there is little warning as you approach stops, and there are few English announcements.

The large T signs everywhere would make Bostonians feel very much at home. Jump on bus number 46 at the Normalmstorg Plaza and ride with the locals for a 45-minute tour that costs just $2.50.

Sure, seek out the classic glassware of Georg Jensen, but don't miss poking around Stockholm's food markets for the perfect pickled herring. The Ostermalmshallen, located in the Ostermalm district off the Sture Plan (plaza), is Stockholm's premier gourmet food hall and market. Built in 1888, it's in an imposing brick building and has always been a gastro-hub. Its vaulted ceiling is braced by a cast-iron erector-set-like cage reminiscent of European train stations of the same era. At the main entrance, you are greeted by the mounted head of a large reindeer, smiling down on the deli stall selling his body parts.

Blue and yellow Swedish flags decorate the center aisle. Stalls throughout specialize in cheese, caviar, produce, cured meats, prepared foods, vinegared salads, and baked goods, while fishmongers dot the perimeter of the market.

The cold waters of the Baltic Sea yield an incredible bounty. Herring, flounder, mussels, giant prawns, baby shrimp, salmon, pike, and sardines all cool on enormous beds of ice. Many of the fish markets also have restaurants, so you have an opportunity to taste what you see. Smoked, marinated, and fried herring with beer is a typical lunch. At the Melanders' Fisk stall, a big barrel-chested man slices Gravad lax (marinated raw salmon) in perfect sheets while chatting up customers at the takeout counter.

At lunchtime, the joint is jumping. Lisa Elmqvist is also a fish market with a great restaurant attached. If the line for the restaurant is long, try the more informal and communal bar. The menu in English may not reflect all the handwritten choices on the overhead blackboard. One sure way to get something interesting is to order what the Swedes around you are eating. A plate with a layer of bread piled high with a small mountain of baby shrimp and a tall cold beer is a winner. Baskets of bread, crackers, and an especially pure and creamy butter are shared with your fellow diners.

At the Lisbeth Janson stall, homey displays of herbs, fruits, and vegetables share space with jars of native lingonberry and cloudberry jams, mustards, and pickles. They make a lovely gift of local color. Taina and Sven Pettersen bought the shop several months ago, and the friendly couple speak reverently of the original owner and their desire to maintain her products' high quality.

Another market with a decidedly different flavor is the outdoor Hotorget (the old haymarket) located on the Kungsgatan, one of Stockholm's main shopping streets.

This marketplace has been around since the 17th century. The flagging market was revived when Sweden opened its doors to immigration in the 1970s. Greeks, Turks, Iraqis, Lebanese, and Italians opened restaurants and took over many of the stalls by catering first to the culinary tastes of their countrymen, eventually attracting back Stockholmers.

The large open market sprawls at the steps of the Konserthuset, an imposing recital hall where pigeons and people perch for a rest, a smoke, or a snack. The towering sculpture and fountain of Orpheus by Swedish sculptor Carle Milles is a dramatic anchor at its base.

Shouts of ''Hey, Hey, Willkommen'' (Hello! Hello! Welcome!) come at you from everywhere. Huge tables of fruit and vegetables make a colorful and edible quilt of fresh produce. ''Try my sweet grapes,'' a vendor appeals aggressively.

Older couples stroll arm in arm leisurely through the crowded aisles buying ingredients for their evening meal. Middle-aged women pinch, poke, and smell before they buy. Without knowing the language, you can still tell there is a lot of negotiating taking place.

The flower stalls are ringed with blasts of color and seasonal decorations. At Easter time, there are clouds of dyed, airy feathers tied to branches just beginning to bud.

There is also an indoor component to the Hotorget at the far end of the plaza where the atmosphere is slightly chaotic. Butcher shops, delis, and little markets stand chockablock along the walls. One glass case is stacked with ducks and other game birds, feathers and all. There are also fast-food restaurants and a state liquor shop. People shop with a purpose here.

Tooling around a local supermarket gives you an idea of what the Swedes consume day to day. There are aisles devoted only to crackers, which come in every shape and size in beautiful paper wrappings. Refrigerator cases are stacked with tubes of intriguing caviar spreads adorned with the faces of happy children. A box of unusual cumin rye crackers and a tube of salted fish roe make a unique and inexpensive gift.

Of course, there is more than food shopping in Stockholm. From large department stores to boutiques, shopping is an aesthetic experience. World-renowned ''Swedish design'' is everywhere evident in appealing displays of products and store appointments.

You may not be in the market for an undulating yellow plastic couch, but a visit to the Nordiska Galleriet will show you the latest in furniture and housewares design. Like a modern art museum but free, the showroom welcomes browsers. You might wind up wishing to replace every piece of furniture and flatware in your home.

For high-quality handmade products, try the shops run by the Svensk Hemslojd, Swedish Handcraft Association. Wooden and hand-wrought iron pieces, woven fabrics, clothing, intricately patterned knitted sweaters, and ornaments - there's something in everyone's price range.

Although Marimekko is a Finnish product, it has a beautiful shop off Normalmstorg. From fabrics to dresses and placemats, one is surrounded by happy colors, nostalgia, and high quality.

If you are game for a 30-minute train ride, the Skarholmens Flea Market is on the outskirts of the city. There you see a different side of Stockholm. The indoor market goes on forever, containing mostly knickknacks, old books, clothing, household items, secondhand electrical appliances, etc. Several antiques stalls have wooden furniture, dishes, and porcelains. While most of this is ubiquitous flea market fare, the atmosphere is interesting. Many of the stalls are owned by immigrants.

All of these offerings show that in between your visits to the museums and monuments, it's more than worthwhile to mingle in the markets and absorb the many flavors of Stockholm.

Debra Samuels is a freelance writer who lives in Lexington.

IF YOU GO ...

How to get there

Lowest round-trip airfare between Boston and Stockholm available at press time started at $945 on United Airlines, connecting through Chicago. From Arlanda Airport, a taxi is the quickest and most expensive (about $50) transportation to the city. Check before getting in the cab, because most companies have a fixed rate. There also are buses, Flygbussarna (45 minutes), and a train, Arlanda Express (20 minutes).

Where to stay

Birger Jarl Hotel
Tulegaten, 8
104 32 Stockholm
011-46-8-674-1800
http://www.birgerjarl.se/

Small 1970s hotel recently updated. All amenities (including free Internet access in the lobby). Quiet but convenient location, 20-minute walk to downtown.

Wonderful breakfast buffet includes smoked fish, cheeses, salads, hot food. Doubles from $256. Summer rates from $128.

Lady Hamilton Hotel
Storkyrkobrinken 5
S-111 28 Stockholm
011-46-8-506-401-00
http://www.lady-hamilton.se/

Located in the Old Town; built in 1470, the hotel has a townhouse feel, full of antiques, charming small rooms, and Swedish breakfast buffet included. Doubles from $307. Summer and weekend rates from $217.

First Hotel Reisen
Skeppsbron 12
SE-111 30 Stockholm
011-46-8-22-32-60
http://www.firsthotels.com/

Small luxury hotel with cozy atmosphere located on the water, with beautiful views. Also built in the 18th century. Fantastic sauna and pool built into a vault below the hotel. Doubles from $179, summer rates. Deluxe rooms and suites come with breakfast buffet.

Where to eat

Backfikan Cafe
Jacobs Torg 10
SE-11186 Stockholm
The Opera House
Karl XII:s torg
Stockholm
011-46-8-676-5800
http://www.operakallaren.se/

One of three Operakallaren restaurants. ''The Hip Pocket'' is small, with posters of opera stars in their roles lining the wall. Counter-style but elegant. Great beer choices, delicious home-style fresh food, generous portions. From $14.

Lisa Elmqvist
Ostermalmshallen (see address below)
Fish and seafood; bar menu on blackboard. Counter service and restaurant seating. From $12.

Fem Sma Hus
Gamla Stan
Nygrand 10
011-46-8-10-87-75

This cozy cellar restaurant is located in the Gamla Stan - Old Town. Updated, sophisticated Swedish cuisine. $38-$50.

Cafe Tranan
Karlsbergvagen 14
Odenplan Station
Traditional Swedish home cooking. Under $35.

Stadhuskallern
City Hall (see address below)
011-46-8-506-322-00
www.profilrestauranger.se

Elegant dining room. Visitors can call several weeks in advance and get a replica of the dinner of their favorite Nobel laureate or enjoy the regular menu.

Where to shop

High-quality traditional Swedish crafts:

Svensk Hemslojd
Sveagagen 44
Subway: Olof Palmes Gata
011-46-8-23-21-15

Svensk Slojd
Nybrogatan 23
011-46-8-663-66-50
Swedish crafts with a modern twist.

Nordiska Galleriet
Nybrogatan 11
Stockholm
011-46-8-442-83-60
www.nordiskagalleriet.se
Furniture, in style.

Lisbeth Janson
Ostermalmshallen
Stall number 49-52
Food gifts.

What to see

A good website on Stockholm: www.stockholmtown.com

Ostermalmshallen
Gourmet food hall and market
Humlegardsgatan 1-3
Subway: Ostermalmstorg
Hours: 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday-Friday; 9:30 to 4 Saturday; 9:30 to 2 Saturdays in summer.

Hotorget
Kungsgatan
Subway: Hotorget
Outdoor food and flower market, some clothing and accessories. Hours: 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m, Monday-Friday.; 7:30 to 4 Saturday; 10 to 5 Sunday.

Gamla Stan - Old Town
Royal Palace area
Winding cobble streets, plenty of little souvenir shops, and charming bars and restaurants. The Royal Palace is a must-see.

Vasamuseet
Galvarvet
Bus 44, 47
011-46-8-51-95-48-00
www.vasamuseet.se
Original Viking ship raised from Stockholm harbor. Great if you are with children. Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, Wednesdays until 8; through Aug. 20: 9:30-7 daily.

Stadshuset (City Hall)
Hantverkargatan
Subway: Radhuset
Guided tours only. Check for times. Site of Nobel banquets, magnificently situated, gorgeous rooms, cafe, and restaurant.

Beauty secrets? Check the fridge -- Make skin cream and a snack, too

Sometimes it's OK to have egg on your face - or banana or yogurt or apricot or avocado. Just call it a food facial.

Facials at salons can be expensive, great for a birthday present for a friend, maybe, or a splurge for yourself. Instead, consider shopping for your salad and your beauty at the same time; think of it as an investment in good nutrition for both inside and outside your body.

Drugstore and department store shelves are lined with products like oatmeal face scrub, apricot facial mask, orange and grapefruit-infused cleansers, cucumber-like slices for your eyes, relaxing milk and mustard baths. Things we normally eat are in products sold to rub into our skin. But why?

Tammi Baxter, a licensed esthetician and spa director at Le Pli in Harvard Square, says avocados are rich in fat and oil, and therefore are good for dry skin. They also contain vitamins A and E, often used in lotions and skin products. Oatmeal softens skin and apricots are rich in Vitamin A. Acids, present in strawberries, lemons, and grapes, help cleanse the skin and soften it.

Dairy products contain lactic acids that also help soften skin and eliminate dead cells, called exfoliating. Apple slices, tea bags, and chilled cucumbers soothe tired and swollen eyes. The coldness of the cukes and the tannins in the tea bags and apples slices help reduce swelling. Cucumbers are also a good astringent that helps close pores.

Then there is the chocolate body treatment fad. Chocolate is one of the identifiable villains in the Battle of the Bulge, but Baxter says anti-oxidants in chocolate and caffeine in coffee help the anti-aging battle when applied to your skin. Le Pli doesn't offer a chocolate bath yet, but Baxter offers a yogurt and yeast body treatment.


''It's cool and soothing, and the lactic acid in the yogurt makes your skin very soft,'' she says. As good as home remedies sound, however, Baxter makes the case for a professional facial when you can afford it.

''It's like going to the dentist for teeth cleaning,'' she says. ''They do a more thorough job.'' Between visits, keeping your skin clean and moisturized should be a priority. She suggests weekly masks and daily cleansing, toning, and moisturizing, adding that sunscreen is a must even on cloudy days when damaging ultraviolet rays still get through.

Adrienne McCann of Portland, Maine, a licensed cosmetologist, says a sweet way to get rid of dead skin on chapped lips is to rub sugar over them, which acts as an exfoliant. Kristen Lopez, a licensed cosmetologist at Image Creators Salon in Lexington, suggests making a paste of yogurt and sugar and using it on your face once a week for the same purpose.

It's not only your face that can benefit from raiding the kitchen. Many of us with ''dirty blonde'' hair remember going to the beach with lemons and squeezing on the juice for blonde highlights. Brunettes say they were doing rinses with rosemary. McCann has another tip for giving your hair some bright highlights: ''While you are working on your tan, put cranberry juice in a spray bottle and wet your hair.''

Rubbing food all over your face feels weird at first. The mash is mushy and tends to drip. When the drips drop, flick your tongue and lick. Seriously - why waste it?

I smoothed several concoctions over my face - one made with avocado, one with banana, and one with apricot - taking care to swirl and cover every surface, just like icing a cake. The nose was a bit tough, so I ''painted'' it with a pastry brush. With cucumber slices on my eyes, I lay back for the 20 minutes of forced relaxation. Soon I could hear the birds and smell the light fragrance of apricots. It's aromatherapy, too. Fortunately, the doorbell did not ring. When the time was up (too soon), I stood over the sink and wiped away the mask with a damp washcloth. My skin felt wonderful and smooth, and a friend said my skin was glowing. Mind over matter?

Having some leftover mashed avocado in the fridge, I added chopped tomatoes and made guacamole. I folded whipped cream and some gelatin into the apricot and skim milk powder mix, and had mousse for dessert. Alas, there were no infants around to slurp the bananas and oatmeal cereal, but if there had been they surely would have loved it.

It's a mixture of folklore and science for sure, but what a delicious way to pamper yourself. (One thing to remember, of course: If you have sensitive skin or food allergies, check with a dermatologist first. )

Here are a few more tips from Baxter:

Whip egg whites into soft peaks and paint your face. Let it sit and dry for about 15 minutes for an instant, if short-lived, face lift.

Sea salt, sugar, and grape seed oil make a good exfoliant for your body.

Recipes

Avocado mask

1/2 avocado, peeled, pit removed
1. Mash the avocado until smooth. Apply to entire face. Let set for 20 minutes.
2. Gently wipe off with damp wash cloth.

Apricot face mask

1/2 cup chopped dried apricots, soaked in water until softened
1 to 2tablespoons skim
milk powder
1. Puree softened apricots and powdered milk in food processor until well blended.
2. Apply to face and let sit for 15 minutes. Gently wipe off with damp wash cloth.
Adapted from Rachel Paxton at www.gottabemegirl.com/facial

Banana oatmeal mask

1/2 banana
1 tablespoon honey
2 tablespoons sour cream
1 to 2 tablespoons oatmeal
1. Mash half a banana with honey and sour cream.
2. Add oatmeal one tablespoon at a time until you have a soft paste.
3. Apply to face and let set for 10 minutes. Gently wipe off with damp wash cloth.

Load up your plate with regional Italian delicacies at a 'sagra'

MAGLIANO, Italy - There you are, dining al fresco on a warm summer's eve in the Italian countryside. Plates of the ''gastronomia tipica'' (local dish) are splayed out before you, and a pitcher of hearty wine is being passed your way. You are engulfed in a lively, informal atmosphere. The flow of food and conversation is constant. Friends and family greet one another with kisses on both cheeks and refrains of ''Ciao, Ciao.'' The aroma of grilled meats fills the air. And you know the bill will be incredibly inexpensive.

This is an Italian ''sagra, '' one of the traditional regional food festivals that take place in villages all over Italy, especially in the summer. You will find no better way to experience local Italian cuisine short of
having your own ''nonna'' (grandmother) in the kitchen.

Sagras are sponsored by community groups, parishes, town governments, or political parties, and all proceeds go to a local project, such as fixing the library or resurfacing the soccer field. These festivals can last from three days to a month, depending on the village. There is no need for reservations or dressing up if you want to go sagra hopping, but bring a car and a sense of adventure.

A sagra is like a giant block party or church supper. All the cooking is done by adults who volunteer, the wait staff is made up of enthusiastic local youths, and the food and wine comes from the town's butchers, bakers, farmers, and vintners. The long tables are covered with paper, the dinnerware is plastic, and grills and rotisseries are usually working at capacity to churn out aromatic rosemary-flavored roast chickens, mouthwatering sausages, and cuts of pork or beef.

But that is just the half of it. Sagras are meant to highlight a local delicacy: ''aquacotta'' (bread soup), ''baccala'' (salted cod), polenta, ''cinghiale'' (wild boar), ''fagioli'' (beans), or ''funghi'' (mushrooms); there is even one that showcases ''rane'' (frogs).

Then there are all the options for pastas and side dishes. After you review a posted menu, the townies write down your choices and take your euros (cash only). An Italian food dictionary and a paper and pencil are helpful, but there are bound to be plenty of folks there who speak some English. In any case,
this is Italy, so you can't go wrong with your selections, and at these prices (main dishes are usually $4-$7), you wouldn't care much if you did.

With a few exceptions, the sagras are held outdoors, at a town soccer field or just off the main piazza. Large extended families fill tables. Children are urged to eat, and teenagers check out other teenagers. Some sagras provide entertainment with local talent or carnival rides. When the children are finished, they play nearby. The adults are left to polish off another pitcher of wine and watch the night sky begin to sparkle.

Signs announcing the dates and featured foods of the sagras dot roadways and are posted on stone walls in and around towns. Even if you cannot read Italian, it is easy to muddle through a local paper's list of events.

Last August, we stayed in a house in the tiny town of Magliano, about two hours north of Rome in the southwest region of Tuscany known as the Maremma. The Maremma has it all but without the crowds: Etruscan ruins, the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west, and dramatic hilltop towns inland. Tourists here are mainly Italians and other Europeans.

Magliano holds a monthlong sagra just off the main square under a tent that highlights the local aquacotta. Walk through the one main street of this medieval town and pass a sprinkling of shops. Wander through the piazza, bordered by the church. By the time you reach the end of the street, the smells of roasting meats and the magnetic sound of laughter draw you to the tent. Here is the ''Sagra dell' Aquacotta.''

It always takes Americans awhile to adjust to the Italian dining schedule: We would arrive at the tent at 7 p.m., which is way too early, when not even 5-year-olds would eat (Italians generally start eating after 8).
After perusing the menu, we take a seat at a table, where a patient elderly man takes our order: Bread soup, ''salsicce'' (sausages), half a roasted chicken, marinated white beans, and a pitcher of local sangiovese red wine. At under $20, a feast for a pittance.

A handsome boy of 12, tanned and earnest, showed up moments after we were seated, his eyes fixed on the glasses, wine, and bread balanced on the tray he was carrying. ''Prego,'' he said, with the pride of a youngster at his first job.

Aquacotta was once a poor man's soup, but now has star billing. This wonderful soup has hunks of bread soaking in a delicious broth with carrots and celery and the sunny burst of an egg cooked from the heat of the soup. As we were leaving, the tent was filling with the buzz of a happy, hungry crowd. We would return again and again during our three-week stay in Magliano.

Once we figured out the rhythms of the town, we were able to stay up late and join the ''passeggiata'' (evening stroll). We enjoyed gelato in the main square and watched girls with hula hoops and boys chase one another with the unfettered joy of a summer evening and no set bedtime. With the clock approaching
11 p.m., it was way past ours.

We explored the towns nearby: San Andrea, Montiano, Capalbio, and Scansano, each with a sagra of its own. We would see a sign by day and return that evening. Or we would just set out at around 6 p.m. with no set plan, certain that somewhere in those hills or near the sea would be a sagra.

And by heading toward bright lights in the distance - indicating something was happening on a playing field - we were never disappointed. Once we located a sagra, if it was too early, we would explore the surrounding area and return at a more fashionable hour - like one minute after it opened. That is how we discovered the Montiano sagra and its delicious polenta with mushroom sauce.

In Scansano, perched dramatically on a hillside, the sagra was in the basement of an ancient building, featuring ''zuppa di funghi'' (mushroom soup). We sat next to a toothless old man who told stories of World War II and offered us glasses of Morellino di Scansano, the pride of the area. His wife insisted we finish the bread they left. The experience couldn't have been more memorable had we eaten at a three-star restaurant.

On another evening in the beach town of Albinia, with six people in tow, we ate heartily for under $70, including two bottles of wine. But beware the biting bugs of the Maremma lowlands: The mosquitoes ate as well as we did, and strangers were spritzing one another from a lone bottle of bug spray.

Afterward, we crossed the street to an outdoor flea market with live music. That same night, driving back toward Magliano, we happened upon a traveling Dutch one-ring circus, and $5 each bought us two hours of hilarity.

Going to a sagra, we discovered, is more than having a meal. It is a date with serendipity.

Debra Samuels is a freelance writer who lives in Lexington.

IF YOU GO ...

How to get there
This is an expensive time to go to Europe: Lowest upcoming round-trip fares between Boston and Rome available at press time started at $850 on Air France, connecting through Paris. From Rome, the Maremma is about 60 miles north. Take the Auto Strada north toward Grosseto and Livorno. At the end, in Civitavecchia, after about 30 miles, take SS 1 Via Aurelia toward Grosseto for about another 30 miles to the Maremma. The following towns are all off SS 1. A good map of the province of Grosseto is recommended. For a rental car, try Europcar (www.europcar.com), where a weeklong rental in August from Rome's Fiumicino Airport recently listed for about $58 a day.

What to do
Check the local tourist board for sagras. If you are staying at a hotel or pension, ask the concierge about local sagras.

Albinia
Seaside town. Aug. 25-30: Festa di Fine Estate (end of summer sagra) with typical Maremma food. July and August: musical evenings on the square. Aug. 18-19: arts and crafts exhibition and market.

Orbetello
Large town with region's main train station. It is also the gateway to Monte Argentario, with wonderful seaports and restaurants. From Orbetello you can get a ferry to Isola del Giglio, a beautiful park and nature preserve. July 17-21: La Maremma a tavola (Maremma's table), sagra with typical local wines and food. Aug. 13-17: Antiques, arts and crafts exhibit.

Magliano in Toscana
Aug. 1-25: Sagra dell' acquacotta (bread soup). Aug. 22-25: ''Vinellando,'' tasting of local Morellino di Scansano.

San Andrea
August (dates to be determined): Sagra del baccala (salt cod).

Montiano
August (dates to be determined): Sagra del caciucco (fish soup).

Sorano
Aug. 9-17: Sagra del prosciutto. During the same period, the town hosts an antiques and crafts market.

Capalbio
Sept. 10-14: Sagra del cinghiale (wild boar).

The open-faced sandwich: a savory slice of Danish culture

Somewhere between the canape and the sandwich lies smorrebrod, an icon of Danish cuisine. Literally ''bread and butter,'' the smorrebrod is crowned with all manner of fish, meats, cheese, vegetables, spreads, and edible garnishes.

Open-faced sandwiches are popular all over Scandinavia, but the Danes have taken them to high art.
Where the canape is eaten in one bite and a regular sandwich is hearty enough to be a meal, the smorrebrod is always eaten with a fork and knife, and is somewhere in between. Each has just a single slice of bread, and several constitute lunch.

Danes choose from three to five different kinds of smorrebrod along with a beer. A Danish friend says if you don't have to go back to work, it is customary to also have a glass of ''snaps.'' This Scandinavian akvavit, a potent spirit (40 to 45 proof), is made from fermented potato or grain mash.
Kirsten Larsen, known as the ''Dame of Sandwich,'' immigrated to the United States from Denmark in 1959, eventually settling in Minnesota. ''Only One Slice, Danish Sandwiches, Smorrebrod,'' her cookbook, is now in its eighth printing.

Larsen explains that some Danish food, such as herring and smoked eel, can be heavy and oily; the snaps helps absorb that oil. ''It is also an opportunity to look your friends in the eye and say `skal,''' she adds.
Some time after she came here, Larsen attended a Danish Day Celebration where smorrebrod were being served. ''They don't look Danish anymore,'' she thought. ''Like foods from other cultures that assimilate into American society, this one had changed, and from that moment I decided to make an effort to teach how to make the traditional smorrebrod,'' she said.

Today, Larsen teaches Danish sandwich making and gives demonstrations at Scandinavian festivals all over the Midwest. She says that smorrebrod are served in a particular order: First come the fish, then the meats, and finally sandwiches made with cheese. The smorrebrod come both hot and cold.

To construct a sandwich, Larsen says, start with a thin slice of good, dense rye or dark bread (use German-style breads). You can also use sourdough or French baguettes.

Butter the bread - this seals the slices and prevents them from getting soggy later. Then place lettuces (Boston or leaf lettuce work well) directly on the buttered surface. The next layer is the featured element - shrimp, egg, or liver, for instance. Finally, add a garnish such as olives or anchovies and a sauce (the creamy, mayonnaise-based remoulade is popular) to enhance flavors.

A favorite sandwich among Danish children is the ''Hans Christian Andersen,'' made with liver paste (yes, kids in Denmark love liver), bacon, tomato, jellied aspic, and horseradish. That sandwich would be a tough sell here. Larsen's personal favorite is gravlax (sugar and salt-cured salmon) on rye with a dill mustard sauce.

A smorrebrod buffet is a good way to entertain on a hot summer night. Position yourself in front of a fan and begin layering. Make three per person (plus extras of smoked salmon or sliced pork or lamb) and arrange them on trays. Just add small glasses of akvavit or lots of cold beer.

''Only One Slice, Danish Sandwiches, Smorrebrod,'' by Kirsten Larsen, and ''Aebleskiver and More: A Sampling of Danish Recipes,'' by Lisa Steen Riggs, which has a good sandwich section, are available from the Danish Windmill (call 800-451-7960 or go to www.danishwindmill.com).

This story ran on page E3 of the Boston Globe on 7/9/2003.
© Copyright 2003 Globe Newspaper Company.

Basics of a Smorrebrod Buffet

Pumpernickel bread
Sourdough or French baguette
Rye and multigrain bread
Danish havarti and Danish blue cheese
Thin slices of rare roast beef
Thin slices of roast pork or lamb
Hard-cooked and scrambled eggs
Cooked baby shrimp
Herring(creamed,smoked, marinated or in a salad)
Smoked salmon
Smoked trout
Liver pate
Cucumber slices
Radish slices(keep in ice water until ready to use)
Baby whloe pickles such as French cornichons
Lemon triangles(thinly sliced from a whole lemon)
Finely chopped red onion
Sliced cherry tomatoes
Red grapes
Black olives
Sprigs of parsley
Dill
Boston or leaf lettuce
Chopped chives
Lumpfish red or black caviar
Remoulade sauce(see recipe)
Unsalted butter
Dijon mustard
Bottled horseradish sauce
Mayonnaise

Combinations

Smoked Salmon with sour cream and caviar
Roast beef with remoulade sauce, cornichon pickle and olive
Pickled herring with lemon
Red potatoes and egg with anchovies
Havarti cheese with butter, sliced cucumbers, and chopped chives
Roast pork or lamb with tomatoes and remoulade sauce
SLiced hard-cooked eggs with anchovies
Baby shrimp on Boston lettuce with lemon triangles
Liver pate with lettuce and horseradish sauce
Red potatoes and chopped red onion with remoulade sauce and chopped chives
Smoked trout with scrambled egg and chopped chives
Danish blue cheese with grapes

DANISH RECIPE

Cucumber salad
Compiled By Globe Staff, 7/9/2003

3 cucumbers, peeled, thinly sliced
1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon salt
3 tablespoons sour cream
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Black pepper, to taste

1. In a bowl, layer the cucumbers, onion, and salt. Set them aside for 15 minutes.
2. In another bowl, combine the sour cream, sugar, lemon juice, and pepper.
3. Rinse the cucumbers and onion and shake them to remove the excess liquid, pressing the mixture with your hand.
4. In a serving bowl, combine onions, cucumbers, and sour cream mixture. Stir, cover, and chill for 1 hour before serving.
Adapted from ''Aebleskiver and More''
This story ran on page E3 of the Boston Globe on 7/9/2003.
© Copyright 2003 Globe Newspaper Company.


DANISH RECIPE
Remoulade sauce
Compiled By Globe Staff, 7/9/2003

1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sweet pickle relish
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon chopped capers
2 tablespoon chopped parsley or chives

1. In a bowl stir the mayonnaise until it is smooth.
2. Add relish, mustard, capers, and parsley or chives. Stir well, cover, and refrigerate for 2 hours so the flavors mellow.
3. Use as a spread in place of butter or use a dollop to garnish sandwiches.
Adapted from ''Just One Slice''